February in Scotland
February in Scotland
Our journey to Scotland was filled with anticipation and excitement as we hoped to test our winter mountaineering skills by conquering some of Scotland's best grade I/II gullies and ridges. Armed with the book "Scottish Winter with One Axe," we packed our car and embarked on a six-hour journey up north.
Cairngorms
Upon arrival at the Cairngorms and our self-catering lodge called High Range, we noticed a lack of snow, and with the forecast predicting high winds, we wondered what we would do if our plans did not come together. Our first day was spent skiing on the training run, which helped Rachel practice the skills she had learned on the dry slope. After a few hours, we grew bored and swapped skis for snowboards, spending the rest of the afternoon falling over. As temperatures were increased throughout the week and no snow was forecast, we decided to get a climbing guidebook of the area and try our luck at the sea cliffs. Our first climbing venue was Logie head, a lovely sandstone crag where Andy managed three climbs, one being his first VS, and Rachel managing her first HS. The next day we went to Kingussie, where Rachel managed a few good leads, including a Severe climb with only one bit of protection near the bottom. After this, she climbed a wet HS, making mincemeat of the climb after a bit of thought through the crux. On our last day in the Cairngorms, we went further up north to some sea stacks at Latheronwheel, and a great highlight was Andy nearly falling off the top of a sea stack after getting scared of a fulmar.
Summit reached: 0
Climbs: 9
Logie head- Sea Urchin (HS 4b), Poacher (VS 4b), Fisherman's tail (HS 4a)
Kingussie- Capped corner (S), The Block (VD), The Edge (VD), First pull (HS 4c)
Latheronwheel- Wallnut (VD), Pistachio (S)
Torridon
Red Cullin
Leaving the Cairngorms, we hoped for more snow on the west, but there was still not much to be found. Rachel planned a route on the Red Cullin, flowing the popular horseshoe route. The winds were forecast to be moderate, so the plan looked good. After an amusing start to the walk, with Rachel taking a dip twice in thigh-deep bogs, we started to reach higher ground. However, it soon became apparent that the weather forecast was wrong as the winds grew stronger on the first peak, and we decided not to go any further as the rest of the route consisted of narrow ridges. We cut down into a saddle, which was a fairly steep scree slope (that we had different opinions on). This was when the hailstones started, and we turned to each other and started laughing! This snapshot of our trip of mountaineering, with only one summit reached and the weather against us, was a reminder of the unpredictable nature of Scottish winter. The next day, we managed to reach the summit of Meall Ghiuthas and practised our ice axe arrest on a small firm patch of snow. Two completely different days, but both with something to offer. Though Rachel certainly preferred the second!
Summits reached: 2
Beinn Dearg mheadhonach, Meall Ghiuthas
Glencoe
Upon arriving at the hotel and meeting up with our friends, we began to plan our course of action for the week as the snow conditions were still not great. During the week, we were still able to walk a few great routes, and we even fitted in some dry tooling at Orion Crag. Two days stood out over the rest, one being the Devil's Ridge, a grade I winter route, which offered a fantastic day out and some interesting weather conditions.
The final day however was epic! It was a proper Scottish winter mountaineering day and easily the best day of the entire trip. After getting the gondola up, we headed up Aonach Mor and abseiled down Easy Gully using a snow bollard. We then climbed back up Spider Rib grade II, with everyone in our party leading a pitch. Upon reaching the top of the route, we realised we would miss the last gondola down, so we took a stroll up to the summit of Anoach Mor and were rewarded with excellent views, looking onto the CMD Arete and Ben himself. It was a long walk back down, but totally worth it.
Summits reached: 8
Aonach Mor, Beinn Na Caillich, Mam na Gualainn, Mam na Gualainn East Top, Stob Coire an Laoigh, Sgorr na Ciche [Pap of Glencoe], Mam na Gualainn, Beinn na Caillich.
Climbs: 2
Devils ridge (grade I winter)
Spider rib (grade II winter)
Scotland has so much to offer, even when the weather doesn't meet the plan, and that is why we keep going back.
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