GR20: Will This Be My Last Long-Distance Hike?
If you're here looking for a detailed, stage-by-stage guide to the GR20, you're out of luck. There are plenty of guidebooks and internet resources that cover the logistics in depth. Instead, I want to share my experience on this journey across Corsica and break down the thoughts that occupied my mind, as they often do on long-distance hikes.
The GR20 is often labelled one of the toughest long-distance trails in Europe. Among those of us hiking, the question of whether it truly deserves that title came up often. The answer, as I see it, is not so straightforward due to many variables.
The northern section is extremely rugged, featuring a lot of scrambling, sharp elevation gains, and shorter daily distances that still feel incredibly taxing. The southern part is a bit tamer, though still with its own challenges. But the difficulty of the trail isn’t defined by the terrain alone.
Weather and Timing
Weather, for instance, plays a huge role. We chose to go later in the season, hoping for cooler temperatures but knowing we’d risk afternoon storms. Had we tackled this in the peak of summer, the Corsican heat would’ve turned this into a completely different beast—especially considering the 16kg pack I was carrying. That’s another factor: weight.
Carrying the Weight
I chose to be self-sufficient, bringing along all my sleeping and cooking gear, as well as evening meals for the entire trip. I wanted the flexibility of camping, though wild camping is illegal on the GR20, meaning we had to stay at designated refuges. These huts offer a range of options: you can pitch your own tent for €9 (if booked in advance, or double the price if not), rent one of their tents for an extra €13, or sleep in the refuge dormitories. I personally avoided the refuges due to the risk of bed bugs and my aversion to shared spaces, which can spread illness—something I heard is quite common on this trail.
Our experience with the refuges varied wildly. Some were clean and well-maintained, while others left a lot to be desired. Most offered food, though the quality and availability were hit or miss. If you don’t mind living off cheese, sausage, and baguettes, you’ll be fine during the day. I stuck to this for breakfast and lunch. As I carried my own evening meals to keep costs down, I can’t speak from personal experience about the hut dinners, but based on what others shared, the quality of the evening meals also fluctuates between huts.
Facilities-wise, most refuges had showers some cold, some hot and basic toilets. Don’t forget to bring your own toilet paper, though!
The Landscape
What makes the GR20 truly special is the scenery. In the north, you’re treated to stunning ridge lines and dramatic mountain views that would make any mountaineer’s heart race. The southern part offers something different, with endless forests stretching as far as the eye can see. It’s the kind of beauty that makes the struggle worth it.
The People
If you’re looking for solitude, the GR20 isn’t the trail for you. However, the camaraderie among hikers is something I found incredibly rewarding. You start seeing the same faces each day, forming bonds over shared challenges and stories, and checking in with each other at the refuges to make sure everyone has made it safely. It’s these connections that helped make the journey memorable.
14 Days on the Trail
We completed the GR20 in 14 days, linking stages together on some days and taking alternative routes when the weather turned dangerous. High winds and lightning forced us to drop to lower levels at times—there’s no point risking it in the mountains. One quote that stayed with me throughout the hike is: “Getting to the summit is optional, getting home is mandatory.” That mindset helped me make wise decisions when the weather closed in.
Will This Be My Last Long-Distance Hike?
Now, to answer the question I asked at the start: will this be my last long-distance hike? I’m still unsure. What I do know is that future hikes might be more relaxed. I’ll likely carry less weight and take more time to absorb the culture and surroundings, rather than just pushing through mountains.
For now, the GR20 was an unforgettable experience, but whether it's my last big trek remains to be seen.
